Saturday, January 24, 2009

Beach time #2 - Koh Lipe

Resort - Bundhaya
Bungalow, breakfast buffet included, complimentary bottled water

Koh Lipe, part of the Tarutao National Marine park and as far south as you can get without becoming Malaysia, is one of the most beautiful islands on the planet. It's small - one can walk it in a day via sandy paths that criss cross between beaches and headlands. It's also discovered - there are lots of resorts on all levels, as well as bars and restaurants and shops. Our place was medium on the price and amentity scale, and down at the end, but it was large with little alpine-styled chalet bungalows lined on "streets" cheek by jowl, and it catered to grouops, so it's wasn't all that quiet. Again no mosquito net - glad we brought our own, even though ity's a challenge to figure out how to set it up - this time we attqached it to the curtain rail - which was fine when the curtains were closed.
The sand on Koh lipe is powder fine and white - it's like walking on bread-flour - and the water is toothgel green. We were on the largest beach, where most of the action took place - great at night when we could pick and choose where to eat - great in the morning too as we went for a pre-breakfast jog and could pace the length of the beach - about 1km each direction.

After our run we'd eat a leisurely breakfast and watch all the action of boats going out and boats coming in. Speedboats, which act as ferries, stay out in the bay as the beach is so shallow. You must walk out into the water to put yourself and your luggage into a long-tailed boat which then takes you out to the ferry, so there's lots too-ing and fro-ing for the half hour or so before each trip. There are also day trips - the place is a snorkelling, diving and fishing centre.
Then we'd prepare for our day on the beach and would set off across the island, stopping for a latte or espresso (the resort had lousy coffee) on the way. We'd pick a beach and set up on mats and hammocks, set to read and swim and lounge until the setting sun called us home - washing the salt off and putting on proper clothes. The food is a little spicier in the south and we'd need a mango lassi or Chang beer to cool our throats. We'd watch the stars come out and commune with a few of the hundreds of soulful cats and dogs that haunt the island and that hover around tables hoping for handouts but having to settle for a little bit of loving from us instead (petting only the un-mangey ones).

Every night we'd pass the same small boy who'd be on the beach practicing his fire dancing - twirling a long baton lit at both ends. He was pretty good, able to twirl behind his back and under his legs, but his only audience was two or three similarly aged friends and the odd dog - and us. He deserved more.

Beach time #1 - Koh Lanta

Resort - AndaLanta
Garden villa, breakfast included, complimentary bottled water, small swimming pool, spa, DVDs, library, beach loungers.

A grown-up resort. Quiet. Our bungalow was a lovely large room (but no mosquito nets - we had to rig up our own) and a proper bathroom, with a flush toilet, and a separete area for the shower. Our porch looked through two other villas to the sea. It was at the end of a quiet beach at the south end of the island, with three other resorts (more "rustic" than ours) with their own restauranta and bars, as well as another bar at the far end. We ate in all over the course of our 4 nights there, watching the sunset from a slightly different angle due to each location on the beach. Soft, beige sand full of tiny, translucent crabs that scittered into their holes as our feet fell. A few rocks at low tide. Warm, clear water. Tiny fish that swarmed our ankles and arms as we waded and swam.









We spent 2 full days lounging on the beach, reading, swimming and having massages in an open hut before dinner.


The 3rd full day we spent on our AGM. We normally do our annual planning meeting on January 1, but while on holiday it's more location- and attitude-sensitive than date-sensitive and this was the right place to sit down and plot the year ahead. We knew this year would entail some changes in our work focus, and we are quite excited about some of the ideas we have.

At the drop-out hippy bar we shared a bucket of blue cocktail, and at our upscale place we had langoustine thermadore. Our favourite place was the one next door, where we sat at tables on the sand lit with candles in old plastic water bottles and ate tom yam soup and pad thai and prawns the size of cats.

Beaches

Beach No 1: Koh Lanta

White sand: check
Warm sea: check
Swimming pool: check
Quiet bungalow within spitting distance of beach: check
Breakfast included: check
Internet access: check
Decent library: check
Hippydippy bar down the beach: check
Cocktails in a bucket: check
Prawns on the BBQ: check
Major issue of the day: where to read

Beach No 2: Koh Lipe
White sand: check 3 beaches to choose from
Warm sea: check
Swimming pool: none too undeveloped
Quiet bungalow within spitting distance of beach: not quite as much more basic resort style place
Breakfast included: check
Internet access: none , island too remote
Decent library: none, too hippy dippy
Hippydippy bar down the beach: check check check
Cocktails in a bucket: check
Prawns on the BBQ: check
Major issue of the day: 10 minute walk to favourite beach of the trip

Beach No 3: Hua Hin
White sand: check but as this is a mainland resort town and the beach is busy we focus on the fantasttic Sofitel resort refurbished from the 1920s
Warm sea: check
Swimming pool: 3 to choose from
Quiet room within spitting distance of beach: yep
Breakfast included: check mmm 2 kinds of sausage, spare rubs, baked beans and dim sum
Internet access: ridiculously expensive as resort is tres fancy
Decent library: yes
Hippydippy bar down the beach: check but didnt bother to visit as we were in colonial splendour
Cocktails in a bucket: nope
Prawns on the BBQ: nope
Major issue of the day: eating too much at breakfast

flotsam and jetsam

Incidentally, can anyone out there enlighten me as to the difference between flotsam and jetsam? Is one on an incoming tide and the other on an outgoing tide? Does one float on the sea's surface and the other just below? Is one composed of natural elements and the other manmade? It's a question I've yet to resolve and any illumination is welcome.


Anyway, where was I? Oh yes. At home, when meeting someone at, say, a cocktail party, the first question is usually "what is your name?" followed by "what do you do?" and then pethaps "did you dress in the dark?", whereas when meeting someone whilst travelling the first question is invariably "where are you from?" (to be polite becuase it's usually pretty obvious where they are from - more on that later) and then "where have you been/are you going?" and "how long have you been travelling?" A long, in depth conversation can be enjoyed without ever finding out the person's name or occupation or marital status - what seems to be of primary importance is whatt someone's is doing at this exact time.


But then I guess that's travel in general. Day-to-day issues are paramount - where to sleep, where to eat, how to get where you want to go - with big, visionary issues such as why are we here and how is this culture similar and/or different to that one and how some truths are universal being slightly below the surface, while all the other issues that seem to be of such importance at home in reality are unnecessary and unimportant and irrelevant once away from that home. World news, when one comes upon it, is often as if from another planet. Politicians and economists and leaders almost look like ants seem from some great height, scurrying around on some activity that seems of great importance to them, but not at all to the eye looking upon them.


We know we will be back in the thick of our old lives before long, but this removal of concern, this change of perspective is actually quite refreshing and not to be dismissed as irresponsible.


For someone who hates making generalities of people based on stereotypes, it is shocking to me how easy it is to guess someone's nationality purely by how they act or what they say, even regardless of their accent. At a beach resort and seeing a large blond family or group of boisterous couples drinking and having a good time? They must be Swedes. A beautiful couple with a smooth-talking male and a distracted female? French. An older couple badly dressed but witty? Brits. A group of young lads drunk and loud? also Brits. Maybe Australians. A group of gals drunk and loud? Australians. A group of gals drunk and quiet? Brits. A really friendly couple that look unusually young? Dutch. Hearing a North American accent - if someone lights up a cigarette they are probably American rather than Canadian. Canadians all have Mountain Equipment Co-op gear. If someone asks you a question about yourself or your own trip - they are definitely Canadian. If they talk exclusively about their own city they must be American . There are never very many Americans travelling actually - the few there are travel in well-heeled family packs or because they work nearby. Swedes travel in packs as do Chinese. Germans used to, but the ones we've seen here travel in couples. Same with Spanish, French, Dutch, Danish, Swiss, Austrian, Malaysian, Singaporian, Brits. Except young Brits who travel in small packs (3 seems the preferred number). Austrailians travel in small packs too. Norwegians travel alone. Of courst this is rubbish - not reality at all - just an observation based on a tiny proportion of subjectively met travellers in 30-odd years of travel.


But things are slightly different based on where you see them. One of the most prominent things about all travellers to this part of the world is the tattoo. It seems everyone has at least one prominent tattoo, and most have many, or a full torso-full of them. It doesn't seem to matter if they are male or female nor where they are from (although practically all the males that sport them seem to be hairless - by choice I'm guessing) and all seem to be in the 20-40 age range, but every single nationally is well represented. I like that you can't guess where someone is from by how they look, but only by their mannerisms (or their voice, but that's too easy).

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Reading on the Beach

Through the various book exchanges at the guesthouses throughout the trip we have amassed a sparkling collection of books to read on the beach.....

Sue Townsend: Adrian Mole and the Weapons of Mass Destruction (honking, snorting, giggling and laughter from me)

Enid Blyton: Five go off to Camp (much more readable than I was fearing)

Agatha Christie: the Mystery of the Blue Train (J in middle of this right now)

Dick Francis: horsey mystery but name escapes me right now

Josephine Tey: something horrific featuring Miss Pym that Jenny said was unreadable

Ellis Peters: a mystery involving murder at the opera that was better than Josephine Tey

Friday, January 9, 2009

Regularity Report

Still regular though did have a thai red curry that my body rejected as unfit for human consumption by digesting it in under an hour.

Highlight meals from the last couple of weeks have been:
-Bananas in coconut milk made in thai cooking class
-Deep fried liver wrapped in bacon on the riverboat in Chiang Mai (had these all to myself)
-Deep fried belly pork from the new year market in Chiang Mai (is there no transfat that is not good deep fried?)






-Deep fried prawns everywhere - the Thais have a really light touch with the batter- honest - even Jennifer says so!
-Fantastic carp (from Vietnam!) served on the Laos boat, one of the best fish we've tasted ever
-A serious daily addiction to Thai green, red and yellow chicken curry (love coconut milk)






-Mango shakes/watermelon shakes
-The turkey carved with machete in Laos for xmas (must try this at the next Butler/Robson Xmas dinner)
-Laos/Cambodian barbecue - communal broth and table top cooking over coals - untra cheap, delish and fun to do (thanks to Alex and Kathrin for the best place for this in Luang Prabang)


Keep regular everybody (as regular as elephants putting us all to shame) and enjoy your time on the potty

Touchwood in the snow

To see pix of how Touchwood is fairing under 2 feet of snow, go to Adrienne and Eric's blog at
http://www.adriennejenkins.blogspot.com/