memories of Vientiane

A capital city of dusty, sleepy but rather stately streets, like spokes from a wheel. Few old sites, given that the place was sacked by the Thais and everything destroyed but for one 19th century wat, filled with Buddha statues large and small (filling hundreds of niches)

And a wonderful golden stupa of great size - it has been painted gold to show what it would have looked like with its original gold leafThere's a new tower that is at the centre of all roads - it looks moorish to me - and has become the new icon of the city - you can climb to the top for a cool breeze and a decent view until the pollution swallows up the distance.

Due to recent changes in Thailand visas (granting only 15 days at the border instead of 30) there was a 3 hour queue at the Thai embassy to apply for 30 day visa, which required another queue the next day to pick up. With their current political difficulties and with international financial woes, I don't think it was the wisest plan just before their big tourist season. A motely crew there to be sure - few like us, mostly lifer ex-hippies, wearing strange homemade vests over tatooed chests and under oddly shaped beards, just hanging out in Thailand and crossing the border to reapply for visas whenever theirs runs out. I didn't know people like that still existed. The most amazing thing was seeing how some of them cheated, by inchng up the line and insinuating themselves at the front. For what - 15 minutes less time in line? Is their life really so full as to value scamming 15 mintues from others who had patiently waited? Just to go back to Thailand to hang out until the next time they need to renew their visa? A few up us were highly amused watching them - sure made our wait go by quicker and we made a few friends at the same time, sharing travel stories, histories and viewpoints.

In the mornings eating breakfast on our guesthouse verandah, surrounded by trees and flowering plants and birdsong. Helps mitigate the increased cost of accomodation in this city.

Watching a red sun sink into grey pollution a good 30 minutes before it hit the horizon. Then the soft weird glow of reflected light in gloom, softing changing the view over the mekong river from our vista of a bamboo cafe platform on stilts, with cushions and drinks, getting mellow and philosophical. Watching local kids and a few travellers playing badminton in the streets - the kids having a good time, the travellers getting competitive.

A lot of old decrepit white guys with younger Asian women - quite a cliche!

Delicious french food (but no french spoken alas) as well as fantastic bakeries (chocolate croissants for long bus rides - mmm). Our first Lao food - spicy laap (minced meat with mint, green onions, green beans, lime and lots of green chilies) served with sticky rice.